![]() Quote from: Cannuck on June 02, 2008, 10:34 PM I'm definitely with Per and the others on the use of quarter-round, or a nice shoe-moulding. This method works well for me, when scribing window seats and book cases to plaster walls. ![]() Remember to angle it "up" from the floor, for a cleaner line. ![]() You can then tilt the planer in and out of the material to get closer or farther away from the line. With only 1/8 to 1/4 inch, I'd set the planer to about 1/32, and start taking of the material in short passes. If you have to remove alot of material, you can use a table saw or jig saw to get close. Mark the board with a metal scribe or 2mm mechanical pencil and wheel guage. Raise the baseboard the appropriate offset distance, using the highest part of the floor as a reference point. A set of offset wheel gauges Ĭut to length and lay the baseboard in place - level. If you want to scribe, I suggest two tools. A shoe-moulding can come in various shapes and profiles, allowing you to match the dimensions and proportions of your baseboard and casing. I'm definitely with Per and the others on the use of quarter-round, or a nice shoe-moulding. Other carpenters use bandsaws for the rough cut then use sanders or angle grinders to waste to the line you cut close and then trim to line using a block plane If its timber (lumber) i use a jigsaw because rip cutting timber by hand is time consuming, you get more breakout with a jigsaw, so dont try to split the line. Most of the time with a pull saw i dont need to fine tune but thats because im practiced at it My method for mdf skirting is to scribe the line, then split the scribe line with a japanese pull saw (you put a back bevel on at the same time) if the fit aint perfect fine tune it with a block plane If you do manage to "bend" its a more difficult fit when scribing agaisnt architraves (door casing) Quijas says that it is possible to bend skirting to fit the floor, hes right to an extent BUT only if its thin and narrow, so most of the time scribing is the only option In the uk skirting (base board) is almost always single piece, ive worked on single baseboard a foot high and 1-1/2 inch thick (finished sizes) but it doesnt change the method I have the MFT3, TS55, Trion - I plan on renting a miter saw. Or should I just sand or plane to the scribe line and skip the saw - this would mean sanding/planing significant amounts of LDF? Or should I buy the Quickscribe and use it with my Bosch laminate trimmer and scribe the bottom of the board after I've tacked it up an inch from the floor? I'm bothered by the amount of dust this would produce (since the Quickscribe is only made for a select few trimmers) and I wonder if dealing with real wood would be better? I've been pondering this for a few weeks that I will never get this started! My question is should I cut the bottom of the LDF baseboards with the TS55 at a 45 degree angle and then sand or plane the remaining amount to the scribed line? This would mean that I would have to cut every baseboard lengthwise and this would be time-consuming, but I would save time on sanding. I have a choice of LDF and pine (although the pine is significantly more expensive, so I'm considering sticking with LDF unless it proves too difficult or time-consuming to work with). I'd like to scribe the baseboard and I was wondering what would be the best method to trim off the excess area. I like to work on small projects (I'm a novice, with tools) around the house and now that our wood floors are in, I'm going to work on the baseboard trim.
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